7 Day/Night U.S.PacificCoast
May 2005 by Chris
B Dikmen and Rickee Richardson
American West Steamboat
proves that you don't have to go to Europe
to experience beautiful river cruising. Pros: Inclusive pricing, friendly staff, excursions Cons: Pricey
Recommended: Yes
Standing before a
table of 19th century artifacts common to the Lewis and Clark expedition,
Todd Weber looks like a throwback to the 1800's. Dressed in handmade
buckskins and boots, he can (and often does) talk for hours about every
nuance of the historic 1805 Lewis and Clark expedition from St.
Louis to the Pacific Ocean. But
you won't find Todd living in the backwoods of Oregon. He is the historian onboard
American West Steamboat Company's Queen of the West. Todd's job is to immerse
guests in the Lewis and Clark experience for 7 days as the Queen of the West
sails one of three Columbia/Snake River cruises throughout the year.
Rickee and I were a
little apprehensive about doing a paddle wheeler river cruise just a few
weeks after spending 14 days on the DanubeRiver in Eastern
Europe. We were concerned that a river cruise sailing out of Portland, Oregon,
would be a letdown after two weeks "across the pond." Our fears
would soon be put to rest.
The Ship
Queen of the West,
under the capable command of Captain Ron Gray, is the first ship put into
service by American West Steamboat, a U.S.-based company. The
"Queen" is a sternwheeler reminiscent of the days when paddle
wheelers reigned supreme on the Columbia River.
She is capable of carrying 150 guests and a crew of 47. The ship was
constructed in 1995, however, she has been immaculately maintained and looks
like a much newer vessel.
Rickee and Captain Ron Gray
The public rooms are
decorated in an early American style which fits perfectly with the
construction of the ship and the theme of her sailings. Period art work is
displayed throughout the hallways and in the staterooms telling a story of
the history of the Pacific Northwest area.
In your stateroom you will find a guide to this artwork that enables you to
actually do a "gallery walk" throughout the ship. Guests board the
vessel on the Explorer Deck, the lowest service deck on the ship. This deck
is where you will find the Columbia Showroom, the largest lounge onboard
Queen of the West, which is also one of the evening entertainment venues. The
Columbia Showroom is adequate for a ship of this size; however, the seating
layout is somewhat awkward. Next to the showroom is the
"Riverboatique" where you can purchase mementos of your cruise from
Erik. At the aft end of the Explorer Deck is the Lewis and Clark Dining Room.
The room is nicely decorated, has large picture windows on both sides and
tables that seat six, eight and ten. We even found a couple of tables for two
near the entrance. You can traverse from the Explorer Deck up to the Pioneer
Deck via the ship's staircase or the small, but effective, elevator. The
Pioneer Deck includes mostly staterooms and the Paddlewheel Lounge aft. The
Paddlewheel Lounge is a smaller lounge with piano entertainment each evening
and is also where you will find a small selection of books, DVDs and board
games. The third deck is the Great Rivers Deck, where our stateroom was
located. There are no public rooms on this deck. The highest deck is the
Vista View Deck where you will find lots of rocking chairs in which to relax
and watch life on the river while Todd Weber, resident historian, takes you
back in time with his narration. This deck is also home to the ship's larger
suites, the wheelhouse and the Calliope Bar and Grill. The Calliope Bar and
Grill is an indoor/outdoor hangout that features complimentary items such as
fresh popcorn, hot dogs, ice cream, soft drinks, coffee, tea and other snacks
throughout the day.
As with any flat
bottom boat sailing a river, the ride is steady and quiet. If you are prone
to motion sickness, a river cruise is a good choice because you rarely, if
ever, feel any motion. The only mechanical noise on Queen of the West occurs
when the ship engages her bow thrusters to maneuver into or out of a docking
area. If you happen to be sitting in the Columbia Showroom when Captain Gray
hits the thrusters, you will get a free body massage as the whole front of
the ship shakes and vibrates. Not to worry though, the thrusters are not used
too often.
Accommodations
Our First Class
Stateroom measured only 144 square feet. While this may seem small by cruise
ship standards, it is actually larger than many small ships. The two twin
beds were separated by a nightstand/dresser with three drawers for storage. A
small desk unit was equipped with six more drawers and was home to a 13"
color television/DVD combination unit. The TV was positioned perfectly for
viewing from either bed and offered a nice selection of stations. Queen of
the West also offers guests complimentary DVDs that can be picked up in the
library. The bathroom, with shower had very little storage, but everything
worked fine and we managed. The armoire closet had limited space; however, we
were able to compensate by folding many items and storing them in the ample
drawer space. A request for additional hangars for the closet was handled by
housekeeping promptly. A large picture window at the end of the stateroom
provided an unobstructed view of the beautiful Columbia
and Snake River scenery. It also offered a
view into your cabin from the promenade outside! It was a new experience for
us to have people walking around outside of our cabin window. This didn't
pose any real problem as there were shades that could be pulled down for
complete privacy. The only complaint we had with our stateroom was an
annoying rattle that was coming from the overhead air conditioning filter
housing. We mentioned it two or three times, but it never was completely
fixed. However, we commend the crew for responding promptly to try to
alleviate the problem each time we mentioned it. We spoke with several other
guests during the week, and no one else reported a similar problem, so it
must have been unique to our stateroom. If you think this size stateroom
might be a little too cramped, you can upgrade to the Category B Superior
Stateroom which offers 192 sq. ft, or one of the ship's three suite
categories. Worth noting, unlike most modern cruise ships, Queen of the West
staterooms are not equipped with a telephone, a safe or a hair dryer. Also,
you had to lock the stateroom door with a key each time you left the room.
In spite of the
small quarters, the room was generally comfortable and quiet, notwithstanding
the rattle. We only heard our neighbors one time, so the insulation must be
good. The beds were comfortable, our stateroom attendant kept the room
spotless throughout the cruise and delivered our Sternwheeler Journal which
contained a list of the next day's activities as well as an article about how
the next area we're visiting fits into the Lewis and Clark history.
Food and Dining
Lewis and Clark Dining Room
While many cruise
ships overwhelm guests with sophisticated menus packed with exotic choices,
American West Steamboat takes an entirely different approach. For the most
part, the menus are simple, straightforward and the fare is decidedly
American. This perfectly fits the "American" theme of the cruise.
Also, eating rich French and Continental cuisine seven nights in a row can be
a strain on anyone's diet.
Queen of the West
offers the basic three meals a day served up in the Lewis and Clark Dining
Room. A light early-riser breakfast is available each morning at 6:00am in
the Calliope Bar and Grill. I found the Calliope a great place to start the
morning with lots of fresh air and panoramic views of the river. The Calliope
offers a choice of cereals, delicious pastries (made fresh each day),
oatmeal, yogurt and fresh fruit. At 7:00am, a full menu breakfast with a
variety of egg dishes, pancakes, etc. is served in the Lewis and Clark Dining
Room. There is also a buffet of cold selections similar to what is offered in
Calliope.
Lunch is served in
the Lewis and Clark Dining Room at noon with a menu that changes each day.
Don't miss the chicken pot pie. Rickee says it is the best she has ever eaten!
If you do not want to sit in the dining room, the Calliope Bar and Grill
offers a light lunch on the top deck starting around 10am. Here you can enjoy
hot dogs, cold sandwiches, soup and chili. And while on the subject of chili,
let me say that a bowl of chili became a daily ritual for Rickee and me
before going to lunch. Head Chef, Cinnamon Jaramillo, has a recipe for chili
that makes this Texan take notice. Big chunks of beef, tomatoes and beans in
a rich broth make this dish a great way to banish the mid-morning munchies.
And, I can't forget to mention the freshly-baked, delicious cookies that were
available daily.
Before dinner each
evening (6:00pm) the ship offers a Cocktail Hour in the Columbia Showroom and
Paddlewheel Lounge. Each lounge features live music and a wonderful selection
of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres. It should also be noted that the quality of
the drinks poured in both lounges is very good and generous. Pricing is
extremely competitive and comparable to what you would pay on land.
Dinner is served
each evening in a single seating at 7:00pm and, like lunch, the menus here
reflect the American tastes to which Queen of the West caters. When you enter
the dining room for dinner, you will find that the evening's salad has
already been placed on the table. Each evening's menu offers a choice of
soup, appetizer, main course and, of course, dessert. One thing that
impressed Rickee was the opportunity to order half portions of soups and
entrees. On the first night, our waiter, Don, taught us to turn our spoon
face down to indicate that we only wanted a half portion of soup. You could
also order half portions of two entrees if you wanted to sample both
offerings. A nice selection of Pacific Northwest
wines was available by the glass or bottle at reasonable prices. The standout
dinner is the Captain's Farewell Dinner which features steak and lobster. The
generous lobster tail is perhaps the best we have had on any ship to date.
Other items worth special mention are the prime rib, turkey with dressing,
halibut prepared with a bread crumb crust, pork chops, rack of lamb, salmon,
and the cherry cobbler.
All in all, the food
coming out of the galley ranged from average to very good with most items
falling somewhere in between. On a few evenings, Rickee had to send her main
course back to the kitchen because the items were cold. This was corrected by
the fourth night of the cruise. Any time we mentioned this to our waiter, it
was dealt with quickly and efficiently. The Maitre‘d, Jarod, also followed up
on more than one occasion to make sure everything was perfect. The service in
the dining room was very efficient. Even though Queen of the West has an open
seating policy, we chose to sit at the same table for two each evening. Our
waiter, Don, along with his able assistant, Jessica, did an exceptional job
of taking care of our dining needs at lunch and dinner.
Entertainment
Entertainer, Cherie Price, serenades the crowd
Entertainment was
one of the biggest and most pleasant surprises on Queen of the West. The ship
has its own talented Columbia Showroom Band led by pianist (and Cruise
Director) Bo Ayars and two resident vocalists, Cherie Price and Scott Moss.
In addition, the ship invited local performers, referred to as
"step-ons", to come aboard at certain ports and entertain guests.
Among the "step-ons" on our cruise were a country western group, a
quartet that sang songs from the 1950's, a female soloist, and a Nez Perce
Indian who regaled us with tales of his tribe and exhibits of his culture.
All performers were very talented and entertaining. The Columbia Showroom
Band backed up all performers flawlessly. Shows generally began each evening
around 9:00pm in the Columbia Showroom and generally were well attended.
Todd Weber, the
onboard Historian, was always available to answer any questions pertaining to
Lewis and Clark and their expedition or
about life as it was in that time period. His presentations were informative
and interesting and his props, most of which were hand-made by Todd, were
visually stimulating. To see Todd dressed in full buckskins with powder horn
and trading beads draped around his neck was to take a trip back in time. One
of our favorite Todd lectures was his talk on what happened to the members of
the Lewis and Clark expedition after the expedition was over and they
returned to "civilization". Todd was often found outside on Deck 4,
pointing out important landmarks and talking about the many locks through
which the Queen of the West traveled.
We particularly
enjoyed the wake up music played each morning at 6:30 over the television's
Audio Channel "A". On our first morning aboard, we awoke to Elvis
singing gospel music. What could be better?! Switch to Channel B to listen to
the Bo's daily announcements and to Historian Todd Weber's presentations.
Activities and
Excursions
Jody invites guests into her motor coach for a day of
discovery
Unquestionably, the
excursions offered by American West Steamboat Company are the reason you book
this cruise. All excursions are included in the price of the cruise and all
are very worthwhile, interesting and fun. Each excursion is designed to
inform, educate and entertain. On some days, two excursions are offered, one
in the morning and one after lunch. You cannot sail the Columbia,
Snake and Willamette rivers without giving
thought to the expedition of Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery.
Motor coaches are
the primary means of transportation on excursions, and the coaches used by
American West Steamboat Company are wonderful. They are large and comfortable
and outfitted with a bathroom. The coach on which we traveled each day was
equipped with a hydraulic lift for a wheelchair, a feature which was
frequently utilized by one of the Queen of the West's passengers on our
voyage. The coaches also "kneel" when stopped to make climbing the
stairs much easier. There are video monitors dispersed throughout the cabin
and from time to time, pertinent informational videos were played for us
further explaining what we had seen or were going to see. But, the best thing
about our coach was the driver, Jody. She was not only extremely
knowledgeable and informative, but very funny, too.
The beauty and majesty of Multnomah Falls
An interesting
feature of the Queen of the West is its bow ramp that we sometimes used to
get off the boat for the excursions. Since it has such a shallow draft, the
boat pulls right up to the shore and drops the bow ramp onto the land. This
is how we began our first excursion which was to the Columbia Gorge
Discovery Center in The Dalles, Oregon in the HoodRiverValley. The scenery
along the Columbia Gorge Highway
was breathtaking. Once we arrived at the Center, we were allowed to explore
on our own through many exhibits about the Lewis and Clark expedition and the
Oregon Trail. The DiscoveryCenter
is filled with so many wonderful and interesting exhibits you could easily
spend an entire day there. However, we had about two hours and then we were
off to admire the beautiful vista from Rowena Point, a photo op for
our group. Next, it was back to the ship for lunch.
After lunch, we
boarded the coaches again for a trip to Multnomah
Falls and Bonneville Dam. Even though you could
switch from coach to coach, we enjoyed Jody so much that we chose to ride
with her for every excursion. Once again, the scenery on the ride was
beautiful. Multnomah Falls was spectacular.
The visit to Bonneville Dam was informative and educational. We learned all
about how hydroelectric power is generated and checked out the fish ladders
which were built to help the salmon get past the dam when they are traveling
upstream to spawn.
Guests are treated to a traditional Tamastslikt dance
Our third day's
excursion found us in Pendelton,
Oregon at a Wild West Show
held in the Pendelton rodeo arena. We were entertained with country songs, a
herding performance by two sheep dogs, a rifle shooting demonstration and
square dancers on horseback. Afterwards, we boarded the coaches and headed
for the Tamastslikt Indian Reservation where we would visit a
beautiful InterpretiveCenter where history is
presented from the Indian point of view. Lunch was served, after which we had
free time to explore the facility. One interesting feature of this Center was
the presence of elders from the Indian tribe who were there demonstrating
crafts and activities that had been done for generations by their tribe.
These Indians would answer any questions and had great explanations about
their particular craft. We ended our visit with an Indian tribal dance
exhibition performed by an Indian family ranging in age from adult down to 2
years old. These performers were dressed in full Indian regalia and looked amazing.
The singing and drum playing to which the performers danced are not something
we will soon forget. On the way back to the ship, Jody enlightened us about
the local area and how they farm and raise livestock.
Enclosed jet boats are an exciting way to see Hell's Canyon
The next day, we
take an excursion on a jet boat through Hell's Canyon. Before we get
off the ship, we are entertained by J.R. Spencer of the Nez Perce Nation who
performs some traditional songs and stories of his people. What a great way
to start our adventure! The jet boats are parked only a short walk from the
ship. We board the fully-enclosed vessel and soon start our trip along the Snake River. Once again, the scenery is amazing and we
even experience a few small rapids. We spot some Big Horn sheep grazing in
the hills above the river and also a few deer. At one point, we can see three
states at the same time: Washington, Oregon and Idaho.
Captain Gray guides Queen of the West through one of the many
locks
Our fifth day was
spent sailing the Columbia River. Historian,
Todd Weber, dressed in buckskins, presented a lecture in two parts on the
Lewis and Clark expedition. Also offered were a tour of the galley, a tour of
the Pilot House, a wine tasting, and movies on your stateroom television.
After lunch on Day
6, we traveled by motor coach to Mt. St. Helens.
On the way, we stopped at a local IMAX movie theatre to see a film about the
eruption of Mt.St. Helens. This
theatre was equipped with "eruption seats" that vibrated when the
on-screen volcano was erupting, adding to the entire experience. The drive up
to the volcano was replete with beautiful scenery, waterfalls and rivers. In
contrast were the areas where the eruption had completely stripped the land
bare. Our destination was Johnston Ridge, about 5 ½ miles from the volcano
crater. As luck would have it, the weather was rainy and overcast so we could
not get a good view of the top of the volcano. However, the ObservationCenter
at Johnston Ridge was chocked full of information about Mt.St. Helens
and its devastating eruptions and we saw a video presentation showcasing the
eruption and the aftermath. It was another wonderful day of seeing the
historic Pacific Northwest.
Our last day of
excursions found us in Astoria,
Oregon. Here we visited Astoria's
Historic District, Coxcomb Hill, FortClatsop, and the Columbia RiverMaritimeMuseum.
The ship docked within walking distance of restaurants and other attractions
in town. During some free time, we found a trolley that traveled from one end
of the dock area to the other for only $2.00 per person. The MaritimeMuseum was very interesting and was
located right where the ship docked. You could visit it at any time that day
by just showing your Queen of the West passenger ID tag. It was raining
during our visit to FortClatsop, the place
where Lewis and Clark set up winter camp in December of 1805 and remained for
three months. We visited the replica of the fort, but since it was raining,
did not get to walk the trails to the expedition's canoe landing and the
camp's spring. All in all, we had a great day in Astoria.
Disembarkation
Luggage was to be
placed outside your stateroom before breakfast on departure day. It was
interesting to see how the entire crew worked together to get the luggage
from the ship to the bus "bucket-brigade style". We opted to go to
the Red Lion hotel because our flight did not depart until afternoon. Another
bus took passengers directly to the airport. As we departed the ship, the
entire crew, including the always accessible Captain Ron Gray, lined up to
bid us farewell. It was a wonderful way to end a wonderful trip.
Summary
American West
Steamboat Company has a definite target audience in mind and they have done
an excellent job of catering to that demographic. The average age of a guest
on our cruise was probably late-60's and most everyone was retired. This is
not a cruise for young families. Consequently, there were no children on our
cruise, even though I was once referred to as "Sonny". There are no
onboard facilities or activities for kids. Even though we were by far the
youngest passengers on the ship, we had a great time and would welcome the
opportunity to sail with American West Steamboat again. That being said,
regardless of your age, this is an informative and leisurely way to explore
the Columbia and Snake rivers and Pacific Northwest.
Thumbs Up/Thumbs Down
Captain Ron Gray - Capt. Gray is a
true "hands-on" Captain. He is always walking around the ship and
visiting with guests. As with everyone on Queen of the West, Captain Gray was
very accessible and always open to questions.
Historian, Todd Weber treats guests to an informative lecture
Todd Weber, Historian - Todd really
knows his stuff when it comes to the history of the Lewis and Clark
expedition. In addition to having the knowledge, Todd has a passion for this
era. He even makes his own buckskin clothing and replicas of articles used on
the expedition.
Bartender/Waiter, Mel - Mel is just one
of those people who makes you feel welcome and 'part of the family'.
Excursions - The excursions were
handled very professionally. All of the motor coach drivers were
knowledgeable and pleasant. We especially liked Jody and spent most of the
week on her coach. The concept of having the same drivers and coaches meet us
each day along the river is unique and preferable. The coaches were new,
clean and comfortable.
Dining Room Service - All of the
wait staff we encountered and witnessed throughout the cruise were very
efficient, especially Don and Jessica.
Calliope Bar and Grill - This is a
great place to enjoy complimentary soft drinks, ice cream, coffee, tea, hot
dogs and fresh popcorn!
Happy Hour - This is a nice detail
that many cruise lines ignore. The hot and cold hors d'oeuvres were excellent
and drink prices very reasonable.
Captain's Parties - There are two
Captain's parties during the cruise and both feature complimentary champagne,
wine or cocktail of your choice. American West Steamboat Company does not
skimp on the Captain's parties.
Julianne Johnson was one of the 'step-on' performers
Entertainment - Amazing
entertainment for a ship of this size. Great band, good singers and excellent
variety of "step-on" entertainers.
Itinerary - We really enjoyed
sailing the
Columbia, Snake and Willamette rivers.
Bar Service - Excellent service,
quality drinks and reasonable prices. Need we say more?
Inclusive Nature - Virtually
everything is included in the cruise fare. Soft drinks and bottled water are
available in the Calliope Bar and Grill, all excursions are included as well
as transfers to/from the airport.
Embarkation/Disembarkation - From
airport meet and greet to transfers, everything was handled smoothly and
efficiently. Check-in was quick and painless. Luggage was delivered to the
stateroom within 30 minutes after boarding.
Alternate Menu Choices - We would
like to have seen standard items offered each evening as alternatives like
spaghetti, chicken or steak.
Bathroom Size - Bathrooms are VERY
small with virtually no storage space for personal items.
Noise in stateroom - We had an
annoying rattle in our stateroom that never seemed to get fixed. However, I
think this was limited to our particular room and the maintenance staff did
try fix the problem on more than one occasion.
Overall - The Queen of the West
Columbia and Snake River cruise is a relaxing and informative way to see
the Pacific Northwest.
If you have any questions about our Queen of the West
sailing, please feel free to email us at reviews@cruisereport.com
and we will do our best to answer any questions.
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Captain Ron Gray - Capt. Gray is a
true "hands-on" Captain. He is always walking around the ship and
visiting with guests. As with everyone on Queen of the West, Captain Gray was
very accessible and always open to questions.
Alternate Menu Choices - We would
like to have seen standard items offered each evening as alternatives like
spaghetti, chicken or steak.
